Modifications: With each modification I do I will provide the pro's and cons of it in which I have noticed, and the webpage (if there is one) of where you can obtain the same product, at the bottom of this section.
Note only products with a * infront of it will have information on it.
Intake: K&N Replacement Air Filter
Exhaust: Dynomax Muffler (Ractive exhaust tip)
Engine: *Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley
Ignition: NGK performance wires, MSD Blaster Coil 2
Drivetrain: Rhino Pac Clutch, *Fidanza Flywheel
Braking System: *Race Concepts zinc plated slotted & cross drilled rotors front & back, Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Exterior: AndysAutosport Intimidator 2 Body Kit (on its way to my door)
20% Tint rear 35% Tint front, H4 Headlamp conversion
(Too extensive to list so I'll just tell you of my future goal).
Run approx. 1.4bar on an IHI VF22 with a 75 shot of nitrous.
Custom interior with Andy's Autosports Body Kit, on R1 GTR 17" rims
with some sort of Pearl or even phantom paint job.
Fully custom engine internals, full 3" exhaust system, limited slip, bigger front mount intercooler and so on, you get the picture :)
- Can be found fairly easily by typing it into a search engine, how ever for a good low price and excellent customer serives go to http://www.rr-racing.com
I have noticed that the engine starts much faster due to less weight that the starter has to overcome compared to the flywheel, the engine rev's much faster and also drops in rpms much faster between shifts and the engine idles smoother/steadier. I haven't noticed this but it is said that becuase it is lighter it places less strain on the main bearing and can help prolong engine life.
I would think that it also increases the life of your starter as well due to the fact that your starter has to do less work to turn the flywheel.
The con's of such a modification are said to be a rougher idle becuase the stock flyhweels wheight helps (rotational mass) the engine turn at low speeds, how ever I found the complete opposite. With the stock flywheel the needle on the tachometer would fluctuate, bouncing up and down. With the Fidanza Flyhweel I noticed my idle is steady, with no bouncing around.
RaceConcepts Brakes -
It took some time before I managed to find a company that produced not only front rotors that were slotted, and cross-drilled but the rear rotors as well. This companies product is amazing, and extremely in expensive for what you get. You can find them at http://www.raceconcepts.net
The pros and cons of such brakes are far to much for me to babble on about so I'll let you research them and find out for your self. This company also gives you the option of what you want, you can have JUST slotted, or slotted and cross drilled, or even dimpled, whatever you want they can do it.
Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley -
Can easily be found at http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/index.html
The pros and cons of this modification has been a heated debate for many many years. It is suggested that if your engines stock crank pulley had a dampner built into it that by replacing it with an underdrive pulley "without" a dampner in it that you run the serious risk of cracking and destroying your crank. Once again I'm not going to say this or that but rather let you decide what you believe by doing some research into the subject. However the pros of this mod are not immense compared to the immense cost for such a small and debated upgrade in any way. The only difference I noticed with it is that the engine did rev that little second faster than before. The cons that I have noticed is that there is a slight drain on my battery comapred to with before and the power steering at low speeds (0-5km/h) is much heavier but not a problem.